Esmereldas

Just to fill in the gaps .. between the past two posts we did visit the coast. Went to a town called Atacames, which is set up for tourism - and thrives on it. Apparently many foreign tourists use to visit this pueblo, but in recent years, it gets busy only with locals and Columbians on vacation. Which is exactly what was going on while we spent our three days there. There weren't many parents to be found, but loads of teenagers on school holidays. And although it rained for almost the entire time we were there, everyone was out and about at the beach or on the streets showing off the best of the seasons swimwear in flourecent colours and mesh fabrics.

We arrived from the night bus at about 6am and got a tri-cycle driver to take us into town while it was bucketing down. We had intended to just wait out the morning on the beach with our bags, but with the weather as it was we needed to get some shelter, so our driver slash rider *my keyboard is all confused and I can't find the slash key, or the brackets* took us to a few hostels that he recommended, but most were full so we settled on a place that was across the road from the beach and had a lot of character with curvy wooden features around the stairway and the balcony. As the rain continued, we realised that other characteristics included live wires sticking out of the wall and a leaking roof over the bed. We hadn't noticed the leaks at first, because they had cleaverly sticky-taped the holes, but things soon got pretty damp in there.

I'd picked up a cough in Cotopaxi and the damp room wasn't helping so we moved the next night to a much nicer place around the corner. They did exist, just not at 6.30 in the morning.

So we spent the first morning watching movies and sleeping in the wet room, until the sun finally showed itself after lunchtime. We got into our bathers and head over to the grey sandy beach to get some sunshine. I think we've been very spoilt so far with our beaches, so unfortunately I don't have a lot to rave about here. It was fine, though and the water was warm, so we were happy taking turns swimming while the other watched our things, even the next afternoon and following morning while it was raining again.

Food is great there. Being the coast there is plenty of fresh seafood, with ceviche a specialty everywhere. The best food we had was at a food market, where we had a fish soup, ceviche with popcorn and deep fried camerones *prawns*. Fresh, flavorsome and delicious! One of the best meals so far! My mouth is actually watering while writing this.

Nightlife was thumping all along the main beachfront. Totally fulled by reggaeton dance music, it was so entertaining to watch guys of all shapes and ages being egged on by the dj, as they competed for who-knows-what, by dancing on the bar. Some of the choreographed dance had them peddling like on a bicycle and scratching their bum cheeks as they got 'locotae' or something - *loco slash crazy*.

We walked on from this and found other bars, that all looked the same, but played different music - salsa, samba, reggae - where we would stop for a tropical drink, and finally had our nightcap listening to a complete Best of Barbra Streisand. *Hi Ash!* Was a great way to cap off a night that had started with us singing every English song in the karaoke song-book *and a couple in espanol* with a few beers and overlooking the beach.

Ecuador in June

We spent yesterday at Banos - a gorgeous little town at the base of an active volcano. We went there to soak in the natural hot springs - there are several different spots for this, but they were all closed for cleaning or maintenance, so we went to a spa that has a swimming pool *freezing*, hot tub *boiling* and sauna and herbal steam room *perfect*! We spent a good few hours there with Hank's uncle and cousins and returned to Quito in the night. Was lovely and relaxing.

Also spent a day recently up near the Columbian border. Didn't cross over because of troubles with guerillas over there, but spent a nice afternoon with another uncle at the cemetery of Tulcan - not morbid, because we went to see the beautifully crafted topary gardens there. Also went to the markets at Otivalo, which is famed for it's many stalls, etc. I think we saw enough, but could have spent much longer looking if it weren't for the rain that sent us back to the car, and back to Quito via a little cafeteria that sold great cheese and biscuits. Felt cozy enjoying those over a cup of coffee while it poured down outside.

Have extended our time in Ecuador until the 18th June, which gives us another 10 days to explore, get dental work done, and prepare for getting work in London. We'll then spend about 4 days in Madrid getting our Europe legs, before hiting London on the 22nd. Getting pretty revved up to get back into work and earning some money again, and catching up with friends who are already over there. Another new set of experiences ahead of us!

off to the jungles

We're in a humid and sleepy jungle town called Puyo. Hank and I are starting a three-day tour into the Amazon Jungle tomorrow. The company we're going with is Qechuan-run (one of the local indigenous tribes), contributing most of the profit to the community, as well as providing job opportunities from town - in the office, as guides, etc.

Looking forward to canoeing through the jungle and swimming at the waterfalls and waterholes, otherwise I'm not sure what else to expect.

We've spent the past week in Quito, Ecuador, staying with Hank's aunty and meeting all the relatives. Went for a mountain hike one day after taking the cable car at TelefetiQo, it goes about 2kms up a mountain overlooking the city ... it's one BIG city. We celebrated Mother's Day here while it was my Mum's birthday in Australia, so that was doubly special. went to the Fresh Market in the morning for fish and veggies. We ate cerviche and drank wine, and then went for a walk to a nearby park and a bike-ride around.

On another day we went to The Middle of the Wooooorld! Stood right where the Southern Hemisphere meets the Northern, and took a tour explaining all the indigenous tribes of Ecuador - very interesting. I think we will go back to The Middle of the Woooorld, though, as there is another museum up there that has cool experiments, like showing the water running in opposite directions in each hemisphere, etc. It's only a half hour from where we're staying in the city.

We drove through Baños today on the bus, which we will also return to in a week or so. There are Thermal waters there that are popular to soak in. The other cool thing is that there is an active volcano overlooking the town. It's the first time either of us had seen a volcano with grey clouds billowing from it's peak. Pretty eerie!

We will be returning to Quito late on Thursday night, and taking off again on Friday morning to Cotopaxi - one of the biggest mountains in Ecuador. Should be great to do some walking up there. We'll be going from humid jungle to very cold mountain. This country has it all. The coast, as well, but maybe we'll do that the following week.

Had Hank's birthday on the weekend, too. His dad put on a party for him from Australia and we had about 30 of his Aunts, Uncles and Cousins over for a BBQ. We had a fun time meeting everyone and stayed up until 2am, trying to catch the meteorite shower that was expected. I saw 2 shooting stars through the cloud cover, but it was not going to be a spectacular spectacle the way the weather was looking. We haven't been having big nights at all, not since Mexico, anyway, so 2am was such a fair effort for us! Enjoyed catching up on episodes of LOST the next evening in that slightly hung-over kind of state that television is meant to be enjoyed in. It was very relaxing.

We also had a lovely lunch at another uncles in the South of the city. More delicious cerviche, and some beer with lunch as the rain poured down outside. It was very cozy as we looked through old photos of the Tapia family.

Quito is known for for it's '4 seasons in one day' for all of the year, apart from August, when it doesn't rain. The day we arrived we had to drive 10 meters through nearly a meter high puddle that covered the floor of a tunnel. Apparently if we'd arrived a half hour later, we would have been diverted, as they closed the airport. This should be nearly the end of the rains, though.

And nearly the end of this part of our adventures. London's calling and so is the need to earn some money ... hhhmmmm work. What a foreign concept. will have to get my head around that one soon.

ok - before i forget ...

I met up with Hank for a great lunch of tacos - we had a taste of them yesterday on our walking the city tour, but today we really got stuck into them - muy delicious!

I then wanted to see an exhibition on the natividad de mexico - many different artists showing their interpretation of the nativity scene, something that i grew up with and have fond feelings for. I took such joy in setting up the scene at christmas time, and often throughout the year I would want to get it out again - well, it's just like playing house with your dolls.

When i was about two I got so attached to the main participant I would carry him around with me everywhere. One day around this time I misplaced him and mum still reminds me of my lament in front of a passing woman, "I've lost Jesus!" I don't know, but she must have thought we were a very religious family, or that I was in a despairing period of my terrible twos!

Anywho, I digress, but I am on my third montejo = cerveza = beer.

So back to the exhibition ... there were some amazing re-creations. Very much as I would remember our family nativity scene, but the addition of flowering cactus, sombreros, and llama gave me definite articles for comparison. As I went throught the exhibition I saw scenes made from clay, wood carvings, glass, paper machet, beads, fabric, cotton, silver, and more that aren't springing to mind. ohh, weavings, also.

I saw scenes that were small, large, on walls, behind glass, 2D, 3D ...

and ones that made me laugh .. on the inside mostly, but i wanted to laugh out loud. I loved the artist who depicted the arrival of baby Jesus at a fair, or carnival, where people were riding carousels - I recognised Joseph there - or on the ferris wheel. He or she also had them on a family road trip in a convertable car wearing something similar to mambo shirts - role reversal ? ...

Another artist, who used weaving to create the figures, had guests playing volleyball and other garden sports while the religious family bonded in the pool house on the hill.

There was a lot of colour in most of the scenes, mexican traditional dress was being worn in many, and there were a few that had the mariachi bands present. ohh, the presence of the diablo was not missed by many. Not one of the dolls I had when growing up!

Needless to say, but I will anyway, I had a great time looking around there. Some of them were a bit more traditional, but mostly I saw a refreshing look at something so recognisable to me, but depicted by many artists who bought their different influences.

As an aside, this exhibition was shown in the first palace built for the first emperor of mexico, so the building is pretty cool, too. again, no photos were allowed.

me no espanol

just another note to say that, although mi espanol es no muy bien, i've still been able to get by in conversations y ordering food! yippee. I will not starve here.

date TBA

mexico city

I don't know what day of the travels it is, and I haven't been very organised with getting the other entries up in a timely mannor. They will be posted soon, I'm just trying to get a decent amount of computer time.

We're enjoying mexico city - feels a lot safer than i had expected, but have still kept very aware of my posessions, especially in crowds.

We've had some great food here, had a tour of the city's grand and historic buildings, and not a great deal more. we've stayed two nights so far, and will probably take a trip to mexico's largest pyramids tomorrow - oh, and we went to Luche Libre last night .. the mexican wrestling. very funny!

unfortunately they don't allow cameras, but it was quite a sight! ohh, that guy in the cow print chaps, vest and cowboy hat! I hope you can picture it, too. We got the rare privelage of seeing the women wrestlers, too. Three on three tag-team. They were cool. Lots of hair-pulling, though. ouch!


What did I do today? Well, the festival de Mexico is on so I went over to the plaza - the zocalo - which is just at the end of our street and listened to some bands do their sound checks, wandered through the street markets and took some photos. Oh, and I got a cleansing/blessing type thing from one of the healers practicing in the zocalo. A muy bonita experience.

There have been so many activities going on around the area our hostel is in we haven't strayed far from this area.

The first evening we arrived, we went for a stroll and in search of food and bumped into someone Hank knows who is in town for about a week. We went for a meal together in a gorgeous 18th century building with views over a grande Cathedral, and a bit of a stroll around the area.

I think that brings us up to date - well, the mexico bit, anyway. we'll be gong out tonight to check out the festival happenings. There will be music in the streets until sunrise, so this should be fun, and just around the corner from bed if our legs give out.
Will write again soon ... xx

Days 33 - 39

Koh Tao

Lomprayah Ferry Trip. Padi Open Water Dive course. Christmas. Meeting many Germans

Days 30 - 33

Koh Phangan

Mae Haad, Water fall, Marble Bar - still in Monsoon weather

Days 27 -30

Koh Samui

Muy Thai, Monsoon

Day 25

Manila - Hong Kong - Bangkok

Days 19 - 24

Mindoro, Bongabong

Kept inside for a few days due to the typhoon

Despedida on the 8th

Days 15 - 19

Boracay

Para-sailing, snorkeling, grazed leg from rusty anchor, buffet meals

Days 7 - 14

Oriental Mindoro, Bongabong, Balogbog Babae trek and waterfalls, riding carabow, Typhoon Reming/Durian.

Days 5 & 6

Tagaytay and Batangas

People's Park in the Sky. Driving through the mountains, long and windy roads. Freshly cut flowers being sold by the sides of the road, along with the fruit stalls. View of Lake Taal and Volcano.

Stayed with Dinah Joy and Gilbert, and their baby Sophia.

Days 3 & 4

Quezon City and Intamuros.

Spent the day at Tita Pacita's Salon de Orient in Quezon City, getting our hair cut and conditioned, legs waxed, manicures and pedicures given, as well as facials.

Took a drive to Intramuros - the old Spanish Quarter. Also a walk at the Bay walk. Very popular for live bands performing at each of the outdoors eateries. Also street performers similar to those down at Circular Quay.

Days 1 & 2

Manila and Mandaluyong.

Settling in. Steaming hot. Staying at Tita Pacita's condo in Mandaluyong.

Typhoon Reming

Just a quick note to let you know that we are safe and well in Boracay. We understand that there have been many casulties and damage in the Eastern parts of the Philippines as well as in and near Manila.

We did experience part of the typhoon while we were in Bongabong but there was no damage that we could detect, and the town was lucky not to experience much force.

Philippines 20 November - 13 December 2006

Facts :

Population ... 76.5 million (as at May, 2000)
Luzon, where the Capital is, holds more than half the population
Capital... Manila
Geography ... 7,107 Islands cover an area of 299,764sq km
Language ... Filipino and English
Filipino is made up of Tagalog, English and Spanish
Currency ... The Philippino piso, made up of 100 centavos
The AUD was worth about 38 Piso while we were there
Current Climate ... cool, apparently. 21-32C degrees, and humid
Also, it is Typhoon season, so we met Typhoon Reming and Typhoon Seniang
Official Tourism website ... wowphilippines.com.ph
More information ... The World Factbook

Opinion :

Local Interests / Hobbies
Sabong (cockfighting)
Videoke (karaoke)
Texting on their cell-phones
Driving ... walking is an odd habbit here
Tong-its ~ local card game similar to maj-jong
Boxing ~ maybe more so at the moment because of Pacquiao
Basketball
Billards ~ with both round balls on a standard table, and flat tiles played on a rotating table-top
Watching television
Eating
Sleeping (generally follows eating)

Current events
The President has changed the election date
~ not a popular decision

Manila is experiencing an extreme water shortage
~ apparently people are using paper plates to eat off so they can throw them out instead of washing up, and wearing disposable underwear, as they can't wash clothes either

Super-Typhoon heading for Manila
and Preparing for Typhoon Durian
~ we have delayed our trip to Baracay while we wait to see what will happen with this. Hank's uncle is a fisherman and has his ear to the ground

Local boxing hero Manny Pacquiao
~ super featherweight champion (of the world) ... I think. He's popular, anyway : )


Useful words to know
(Maraming) Salamat = thank you (very much)
Maganda = beautiful
Magaling = great
Masarap = I really like the taste / this is delicious
Busog na ako = I'm full
Lindol = earthquake
Magandang ... = good ...
Umaga = morning
Hapon = afternoon
Gabi = evening
Magkano = how much is it?
Sigurado /Siempre = sure/certainly
Sige = alright then
Bukas = tomorrow
Buko = coconut
Walang problema = no problem
Mai problema = there's a problem
Mahal kita = I love you
Sakit = pain
Butas = puncture
Lola/Lolo = Grandmother/Grandfather
Tita/Tito = Aunty/Uncle
Bulaklak = flower
Laklak = drink more
Lasing = drunk
Babae = woman
Lalaki = man
Bulogbog babay = pig's back
Buri Buri = cute (i think)

Be aware
~ You can cross at the pedestrian crossing, but don't expect the cars to stop for you ...
~ They (cars, buses, tricycles and jeepneys, etc) drive on the right-hand side of the road
~ Every toilet (Comfort Room) is different ... be prepared
~ Philippinos seem to love having their photo taken, the children especially. If you can show them their image on a digital screen, they'll be delighted
~ If you have fair skin, like us, you will be treated like a celebrity - especially in the provinces where they don't see much tourism. It can take a bit to get use to the attention.
~ I think it is the custom to feed the guest first, so the hosts may not eat with you but they wait for you to finish eating before they come to the table, and eat what is left of the buffet. We have learnt not to take too long eating, and not to eat too much, either.

Soundtrack
1950's rock 'n' roll
love ballods of any era
tooting horns
roosters crowing all day and night
videoke with trumpeting scores "you are a perfect artist"
wowowee ~ very popular television 'gameshow'
boom-terap-terap ~ very popular song from wowowee

Local superstitions (according to Tito Tikboy)
~ Don't cut bamboo on a day that has an 'r' in the name, or the bamboo bugs will eat at it
We discussed that this left Sun, Mon, Tues and Weds, but then remembered that Martes and Miyerkoles are the Filipino names for Tues and Wed, so this one is a bit confusing
~ Plant vegetables at low tide, as they will grow stronger
~ You should get married between the new moon and the full moon to bring good blessings and avoid debt
~ When cooking, if you place the saucepan lid the right way up on the table, dogs will use your garden as a toilet (this one is courtesy of Lola to Hank when he was younger)

What we ate
Sisig ~ pig's ear and tongue
Longsilog ~ breakfast of local sausage, fried rice and egg
Tanola ~ chicken soup with lots of garlic and chilli leaves
Sinagang ~ soup, often with milk fish or chicken and citris, tangy fruits
SuSo ~ snails

Where we visited
20-23 Nov ... Manila, Mundaluyong City, Quezon City, Star City, Intramuros, Bay Walk, Mega Mall
24 Nov ... Tagaytay, People's Park in the Sky, Batangas, Lipa City
25-30 Nov ... Ferry to Mindoro, Cataclun, Bongabong, Balogbog Baboy (trek and waterfall)
3-7 Dec ... 2am ferry from Roxas to Calapan then commute via Island hopper to Baracay for 4 nights ~ snorkling, parasailing, sailing, chillin'
8-12 Dec ... Bongabong again where we stayed an extra three nights because of the second Typhoon, despidida on the 8th (expecting to leave the next day), then the ferry and drive to Manila for our re-scheduled flight
13 Dec ... Fly from Manila to Hong Kong, a few hours in the HKIA and then onto Bangkok

updated itinerary

I called the British High Commission the other week to check if we needed to be in the UK before Hank turns 31 in May, and was told we didn't, so we've extended our travels a bit and will now arrive in London about mid June. Here's our latest itinerary:

20 NOV 06 - depart SYDNEY, Australia ~ arrive MANILA, Philippines

11 DEC 06 - depart MANILA ~ arrive BANGKOK, Thailand, via Hong Kong

15 DEC 06 - depart BANGKOK ~arrive KOH SAMUI, Thailand

We'll then take a boat to Koh Tao, which is not far from Koh Samui

28 DEC 06 - depart KOH SAMUI ~ arrive SIEM REAP, Cambodia, via Bangkok

We then make our way from Cambodia into Vietnam and then to Hong Kong

30 JAN 07 - depart HONG KONG, China ~ arrive SAN FRANCISCO, USA

07 MAR 07 - depart SAN FRANCISCO ~arrive DALLAS, USA

15 MAR 07 - depart DALLAS ~ arrive MEXICO CITY, Mexico

05 APR 07 - depart GUATEMALA CITY, Guatemala ~ arrive NEW YORK, USA, via Miami

12 APR 07 - depart NEW YORK ~ arrive LA PAZ, Bolivia, via Miami again

We'll then make our way from Bolivia to Peru

04 MAY 07 - depart CUSCO, Peru ~arrive AREQUIPA, Peru

07 MAY 07 - depart AREQUIPA ~arrive LIMA, Peru

10 MAY 07 - depart LIMA ~ arrive QUITO, Ecuador

08 JUN 07 - depart QUITO ~ arrive MADRID, Spain

12 JUN 07 - depart MADRID ~ arrive LONDON, UK

TBA - depart LONDON ~ arrive SYDNEY

WoWo! Let's see how that goes ...